Scrollsaw Segmentation

This is something one of the guys was sharing on the MSN Intarsia group (http://groups.msn.com/Intarsia). I've modified it slightly but if you know who wrote it originally I'm more than happy to give them the credit!

How to choose a scrollsaw blade

With over 90 styles and sizes of blade it can be very confusing. Most scrollers get by with 4 or 5 different blades for all their cutting. There is no perfect blade for each material or thickness and no substitute for patience and experience! There are however, some guidelines that can help:

  • Skip tooth blades cut fastest but most roughly.
  • Regular tooth blades cut slowest and double tooth blades are somewhere in between.
  • Reverse tooth blades give a splinter free bottom cut but cause the wood to hop more. To counteract this you need to use more hold down pressure.
  • At least 2 reverse teeth should be showing above the table on the up stroke for the reverse teeth to be effective.
  • Proper tension will make the blade cut better and last longer.
  • If the blade is too loose it will wander, too tight and it will break often.
  • Relax when you cut. Don't force the blade through the wood - allow it to do the cutting. If you force the blade it will wander off line or break.
  • Learn to make quick crisp corners to avoid burning - which is often caused by the blade rubbing in the same place.
  • Use lower # blades for thin stock and light corners.
  • Use larger # blades for thicker stock.
  • The fewer TPI the faster the blade will cut but the coarser the finish.

#1 : 1/16" - 1/8"

#3 : 1/8" - 1/4"

#5 : 3/8" - 1/2"

#7 : 1/2" - 3/4"

#9 : 3/4" - 1"

#12 : 1" - 1 1/2"

Often not all blade types are available in all sizes.

Regular Tooth
Teeth regularly spaced along the blade. Slowest cutting but smoothest cut. Best control blade. Good for intricate scroll work.

Skip Tooth Non Reverse (SK/NR)
An ordinary skip tooth blade, without reverse teeth. Fast cutting and less hopping.

Regular Hook Tooth (RH/T)
The teeth on these blades have a very positive rake. The teeth face forwards and are very aggressive so you get a smooth cu with a fast cutting rate but they are not so easy to control. Experienced hand required.

Spiral (SP)
Cuts in any direction but not so smooth. Good for cutting large projects in material like slabs or burls.

Metal (MT)
Blade for cutting brass, copper, aluminum, coins etc. Not iron or steel.

Precision Skip (P/S)
A skip tooth, reverse tooth blade. Ground teeth are very sharp and stay sharp longer. Less prone to burning. Splinter free top and bottom cut.

Double Tooth Reverse (DT/R)
Excellent control and long lasting blade. Splinter free top and bottom cut. Some hopping.

Double Tooth (DT/NR)
Same as DT/R but without the hopping. Good control blade.

Full Reverse (F/R)
Every third tooth is reversed. A good blade for intricate cutting. Good control with very smooth top and bottom cut.

To small a blade will mean more breakages. If you try to cut to fast you will wander off line. To tight a blade will cause breakages. To loose will cause wandering.

Type of material will always effect the above sizes. Ask other scrollers which blades they prefer for different materials. Scrollers are almost always willing to share information and ideas.

Remember: "Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself."

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