Yes, I know health and safety is not the most exciting subject but this stuff is important so please listen up for just a couple of minutes. After all, you wouldn’t want to ruin your beautiful piece of work by getting blood all over it, would you?

You and Your Workshop

The most important contribution to your health & safety is your attitude. Never do woodwork when you can't give it your full attention. If you're tired or distracted by other thoughts, go and do something else. If you can't concentrate then the quality of your work will suffer and you're more likely to make mistakes. Maybe you'll just spoil a nice piece of scrollsaw work - there's a good chance you'll end up hurting yourself.

Not tired? Great. But before you start have a quick look at yourself.

• Will any of your clothing flap around and get caught in machinery?
• What about that loose jewellery?
• Do you wear a tie or scarf? Tuck it inside your shirt or remove it.
• Always wear eye protection and an appropriate form of dust mask.

And please - make sure your work area is tidy. I used to be as guilty of this as anyone, leaving piles of tools and stuff all over the place. I learned my lesson after a moment of unpleasantness with a moving belt sander and a discarded chisel that picked precisely that moment to fall off the shelf. I was lucky, it missed.

Oh, and no children - unless you're specifically teaching them - and absolutely no pets.

Your Tools

The tools used for scrollsawing are among the safest in the workshop - but if it can cut wood, it can make a quick job of flesh and bone too!

So before you get going, check things thoroughly to make sure they're in good working order. If a tool is new to you, read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Then read them again. Yes, I know it's tedious when you want to get on with making something, but not as tedious as spending time in hospital.

Check blades. A sharp bandsaw or scrollsaw blade is actually safer than a blunt one. Worn blades can wander, catch or break - with unpleasant consequences. It's far easier to replace a blade than part of your hand!

Make sure all guards or guides are in place. Never be tempted to work without them. If you can't do the job without removing a guard, you shouldn't be doing it on that machine. Use the right machine for the job - or don't do it.

Likewise with sanding equipment. Is everything OK? Abrasive running smoothly? If a sheet of abrasive is torn or frayed, what's going to happen when it catches on something at 3000 rpm? At best it will fly off across the workshop. More likely you'll be in its way. Replacing it will take a few moments - you'll be safe and your work will be better for it.

Your Wood

Now I'm not suggesting that wood is "hazardous" in the same way as plutonium or anything like that, but it can be a health risk just the same - and I don't just mean if you drop a large chunk on your foot!

Sawdust - particularly the fine stuff caused by sanding - can irritate your nose, throat and lungs. Some woods - beech, ebony, certain rosewoods, etc - can produce serious skin and airway reactions in some people. MDF dust (Medium Density Fiberboard is a composite of wood fibers and chemical binders) is just plain nasty.

So get yourself the best extraction system you can afford - and empty it regularly so it's always performing at its peak.

Your Finishes

I know you wouldn't ever leave your finishes where small children could get hold of them, but there are other considerations. The Golden Rule is ALWAYS READ THE LABEL.

Some finishes are just plain poisonous, others give off toxic odors which leave you light-headed. Just because it says “water-based” doesn’t mean you can drink it! Even the most environmentally-friendly can smell pretty foul so always work in a well ventilated area.

And don't forget to check the instructions for cleaning brushes or disposal of used rags. Some oils can dry on a polishing cloth but spontaneously ignite hours later. So at the danger of repeating myself. ALWAYS READ THE LABEL.